5.14a R Trad Climb, Index WAWilliam Moss (17 at the time of filming) relentlessly pursues the dangerous goal of climbing 5.14 with marginal trad gear at Washington's premiere granite crag Index.
During the first ascent of "En Passant" two bolts were placed through the crux section to avoid the need for placing small nuts and taking potentially dangerous falls on them. The meat of the climb is 25 moves of techy vertical granite bouldering clocking in around V10/11. The establishment of "En Passant" made it likely to be Index's first 5.14.
In summer of 2022, William Moss stepped up to the base of "En Passant" with the goal of climbing it entirely on gear. The top half of the route depends entirely on the reliability of a small 5kn offset nut, which if fallen on would result in a 20ft+ pendulum whipper (if the piece holds). Will gives the route an R-rated safety rating.
with Ben Hanna
Ben Hanna reflects on comps and repeats Lee Majors 5.14c in Arizona.
Balancing time training and sending hard routes on real rock is a tough balance for any climber, but perhaps no one has a harder time justifying large amounts of time projecting outside than World Cup boulderers.
That's why, when American climber Ben Hanna, 23, decided to make a two-week winter trip to the Dry Canyon near Sierra Vista, Arizona it wasn't without some hesitation.
Watch as Ben puts down Nathaniel Coleman's multi-year roof project, "Lee Majors" (5.14+/9a) and manages some other quick ascents including Suzanna Somers: A Love Story (5.14b/8c) and Almost Famous (5.14a/8b+)
With support from:
Nathaniel Coleman & Sean Bailey at the Crag
American professional climbers Nathaniel Coleman and Sean Bailey enjoy a day at the crag.
It's rare for World Cup climbers to find time for outdoor climbing amidst strict training schedules and indoor competitions. This film aims to capture that rare moment where two friends enjoy a casual day at the crag and make hard moves look easy.
With support from:
Portrait Maël Loizance: A Life of Climbing
A portrait documentary of French rock climber & musician Mael Loizance as he reflects on what he has learned from rock climbing over 30 years.
So many climbing films focus on the objective, be it a summit, first ascent or some hard overhanging sport climb. The intention behind this film was to go beyond the objective. Instead focusing on the personality of a man who embodies a spirit of togetherness and passionately emits a musical state of being.