William Moss (18) claims the 2nd ascent of Kokanee Corner. The legendary Kokanee Corner established by Hayden Kennedy has sat unrepeated for almost a decade. 
About the climb
The route features 3 incredible pitches of climbing up a desert tower. Pitch one begins with a 5.12 layback. Pitch two is a full 40m pitch. The opening moves involve an extremely technical coordination crimp dyno with very small holds and poor feet. The final section of the pitch involves insane, blank corner stemming protected by a nest of 0.000 cams to finally gain good finger locks to the anchor. Pitch three ​​​​​​​
How many days did you spend projecting the route? What were the hardest things to figure out? 
I spent 4 days projecting the route. On my first go as I climbed and aided through the stemming sequence and the .2 layback sequence afterward it felt impossible and I questioned wheather or not I’d ever be able to do it. The sport sequence was quite hard to figure out but it was similar to other routes I’d worked. For the the true crux was figuring out the upper section with the stemming sequence and the thin layback.
How did you figure out the coordination dyno? What unlocked the stemming corner for you? I figured out the coordination dyno to be the best beta after the first day of working the route. Since the crimp I was jumping to was slanted in an awkward direction, the best way I could stop the swing was to stab my foot on a hold around the corner. And what unlocked the stemming sequence was the day of top rope soloing that I did on the route. I really took the time to figure out how to place each piece best and which footholds to use at every stance. With a sequence this intricate it was just very important to give up the potential of sending for a day and just spend some time to figure out the beta and master the sequence. Another thing that was hard to figure out was the layback sequence above the stemming sequence. This was really hard for me since it was a .2 crack and I have kind of fat fingers so I could barely fit them in. The best way for me to do this sequence was to shove my right lat into the corner and scum up the wall while laying back to slowly get up to where the crack widens. After the day of top rope soloing I dialed all the feet on this section and it felt a lot better.
Can you describe the day you sent the route? What was the weather like, how did the crux pitch feel, what happened on the last pitch…? The day I sent we started climbing at around 12. The first pitch went great and then we hung out on the ledge till the sun was off the crux. On my first go I made it past my previous high point and fell at the last hard move of the lower sport crux. On my second go I made it past the sport crux for the first time. Did the next stemming sequence pretty well with some insecurity at the final moves. Then I was at the final stemming sequence. I place the micro cams as I had rehearsed and did the crux stemming sequence pretty well. I the rested at the good finger lock before the thin layback sequence. I took off my shirt there for better friction with the lat scum. I fought through the next sequence and surprisingly made it through to the end of the pitch. I was cold without a shirt and sent the rope down so Quinn could attach a jacket to it and send it up. Then the last pitch was extremely sandy and loose and probably hadn’t been climbed in awhile. I was worried about trusting the gear because of the quality of the rock and how sandy it was. I fought through the finger locks and struggled to make it through the hard boulder off a hand jam. Then I got to the offwidth and didn’t have big enough gear for it since mountain project said a 6 would be big enough but it wasn’t. At one point I found a spot for it but then when I tried to bump it, it just fell out of the crack. I struggled through it to the finish and was very psyched to see bolted anchors. I had never climbed a dessert tower before and standing on the summit felt amazing. I rapped down drove 6 hours to boulder and the got on a flight at 5am the next morning to go back to nyc.
Are you upgrading the route to 5.14a and why? Yes I am. This took me longer to send than many grades up to 5.14c (I sent child’s play and cheating reality and trebuchet quicker than this) now I don’t think it’s 14c but rather a route in a different style than many others I’ve done in the past but with that being said I think it’s definitely harder than 5.13+ and my best guess for the grade is 5.14a. Also brad go right said it might have been the hardest climb he’d ever tried and he’s done multiple 5.14 trad routes.
Anything else you want to add to the write up of the send.